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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.